DESIGN NAME: Urban Army
PRIMARY FUNCTION: Garment
INSPIRATION: The inspiration behind the collection comes from a basic Indian upper garment kurta and a rectangular piece of scarf like fabric draped above the shoulder which is a dupatta. Both the kurta and the dupatta are a popular pieces of clothing owing their origins to the Vedic times. The idea was to make a garment for the global urban women keeping the elements from the kurta and the dupatta in mind. Hence, came the ideation for the methods used to create the Urban Army series of dresses, referred to by us as kurta dresses. Different cut panels of dupatta in crepe were used to cover the upper part of the body, keeping the shoulders fitted and the rest of the panels hanging loosely. The shoulder ares was then stitched and any open sides of the flowing panels were overlapped and sewn together to complete the garment.
The idea behind using different cuts of dupatta inspired panels was to give variety to the same method of making an outfit. Adding colours, differnt lengths and a hemline with net border brought about style differentiation. Hence, the kurta dresses were developed giving it a modern twist and global appeal.
UNIQUE PROPERTIES / PROJECT DESCRIPTION: There is a growing awareness in the youth today for their society. They want a change and want it real fast. They are working towards it in their own ways , in their sphere of work. These are the silent soldiers who will fight the battle against the injustice and the non-progressive views prevalent under the so-called sophisticated societies. We call them the ‘Urban Army’. Keeping them as inspiration a collection of fuss free flowy draped dresses inspired from kurta and dupatta is developed in light fabrics. From colour blocking to single tones each of these dresses are unique in their drapes where no two dresses can be draped in the same way and do not look the same. Hence, each piece is unique in its own style. The usp of the collection is that each piece is draped separately. Available in an interesting mix of colours in crape and flat chiffon, this collection is
a wardrobe must have.
OPERATION / FLOW / INTERACTION: The garment is worn over an inner which is a bodysuit.it is a versatile garment for any body type as its provides ease in wearing and light weight fabric.
PROJECT DURATION AND LOCATION: The project started in in August 2016 in Kolkata and finished in October 2017 in Kolkata/India, and was exhibited in The India Story, Kolkata in October 2016
FITS BEST INTO CATEGORY: Fashion, Apparel and Garment Design
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PRODUCTION / REALIZATION TECHNOLOGY: Each garment of this collection is uniquely draped from trapeze cut panels of 60 gms crepe and 50 gms flat silk chiffons. Every panel is finished with a woven stiff net border at the hem to give a bounce effect to each drape. Sewn on a single needle flat stitch machine the basic technique of overlap and stitch is used to complete each outfit.
SPECIFICATIONS / TECHNICAL PROPERTIES: Fabric: 60gms Crepe
Dye: Natural Organic Dyes
Colour: Grey,Red
Quantity of fabric used per garment:Crepe 4.5 metres, Net 1.5 metres
Threads: Core Spun Polyester yarn
Stitched on:Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine(Brother)
No. of days to procurement of fabric to finishing the product: 20days
Size: Can me made to order, Standard size for sample is UK 10
TAGS: Urban Army, Draped Dresses, Kurtas, Experimented Silhouettes, Dupatta, Colours,Kurts Dresses
RESEARCH ABSTRACT: Went through a visual research of the type of Indian garment most preferred by the Indian subcontinent. The result was a kurta, a loose upper garment worn by both men and women. Our being a women only brand , we looked for ways to get the feel and purpose of the kurta with a contemporary twist to be worn as an occasion wear. Focussing on keeping the upper body fitted, rounds of experiments began to look for an theory behind making the new version. We added another element of another popular garment, the dupatta. A dupatta is a rectangualr piece of cloth worn over the shoulder or around the neck teamed with a kurta and a lower garment. Hence came a theory for the Urban Army series of dresses.Taking 5-6 dupattas which were made to hang from differnt parts of the shoulder a kurta dress was created. The shoulder area and open sides were stitched to make a complete garment.
With the basic direction of the method , various elements were then added. The sided of each panel of dupatta was stitched, Differnet shapes of dupatta was used, the hem of each dupatta panel eas highlighed with a net border(another Indian element), played with various colours and draping styles, to reach to the end design.
By perfecting the technique and process the series of these kurta dresses(as we call it) have a global appeal. They come with a fitted bodysuit inner which takes care of any open sides of the dupatta panels. The collection is already launched in the stores and is a fast seller considering its suitability on all body types. The research has led to the development of a versatile garment which is still connected to its roots.
CHALLENGE: The most challenging part of the research was how to make the garment appealing without any embellishment and yet offer new variety with each style. We wanted to come to a methodlogy which would apply to all yet give different results so that the end customer is satisfied with the uniqueness of the product. Hence we adopted the draping different cuts and pattern of the dupatta panels. This was we made sure that each design will look different from other, yet be similar in the lines of fabric and technique.
ADDED DATE: 2018-02-21 09:16:14
TEAM MEMBERS (1) : Aakanksha Passary
IMAGE CREDITS: Image#1 :Photographer Swarup Dutta, Urban Army, 2016
Optional Image#1 :Photographer Swarup Dutta, Urban Army, 2016
Optional Image#2 :Photographer Swarup Dutta, Urban Army, 2016
Optional Image#3 :Photographer Swarup Dutta, Urban Army, 2016
Optional Image#4 :Photographer Swarup Dutta, Urban Army, 2016
PATENTS/COPYRIGHTS: Copyrights belong to Megha Garg,2016
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