Kalai Textiles by Mugilan Soundiraradjou

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DESIGN DETAILS
DESIGN NAME:
Kalai

PRIMARY FUNCTION:
Textiles

INSPIRATION:
The fabric is woven from a small town in India called Puducherry where I hail from. The place once flourished with handlooms. But now handloom is declining. This was the motive to start working on a handloom project. The inspirarion of this particular textile is taken from the defects that occour while weaving on a handloom. These defects were studied and were positively used to design the textile.

UNIQUE PROPERTIES / PROJECT DESCRIPTION:
The textile is a hand woven textile. It is designed in such a way that the fabric has holes which is not woven. These holes are formed during weaving itself. The patterns formed in the textile is due to the areas which are not woven. The technique used in this fabric is such that it needs to be woven by stopping the loom. This makes it unique to handloom. In other words, it is highly difficult to weave this on a poweloom. The most interesting aspect is that this was woven with two shafts(plain weave). The technique can be used to produce a furnishing textile or an apparel.

OPERATION / FLOW / INTERACTION:
The textile is a hand woven textile that has patterns which are non woven. The textile has a tedious process of weaving which makes it difficult to weave on a poweloom. The patterns formed allow light to pass through making it a textile that allows light partially when used as a curtain.

PROJECT DURATION AND LOCATION:
The project was started in January 2018 and ended in April 2018. The project was exhibited at National Institute of Fashion technology as a part of Graduation show.

PRODUCTION / REALIZATION TECHNOLOGY:
The textile was an outcome of trying to convert the defects that occur in handloom as a positive effect. This technique was executed on a two shaft loom (plain weave). The warp is 2/40's cotton white in colour. The weft is 2/40's black in colour.

SPECIFICATIONS / TECHNICAL PROPERTIES:
This is a sample textile of the size 500mm in width x 660mm in length. The ends per inch is 76 and picks per inch is 56. The warp is 2/40's cotton white in colour and weft is 2/40's cotton black in colour

TAGS:
Handloom, Textile, Handwoven, Innovative fabrics, Design, Textile Design

RESEARCH ABSTRACT:
The research was started to develop fabrics that will be unique to handloom. The fabric should difficult to be woven in a powerloom. This was carried out as an effort to uplift the hanloom weavers. The most important reason why handlooms are declining is because of the competition from the powerloom fabrics. So the objective was to create a woven fabric that would be hard to duplicate on a powerloom. This would create a demarcation between the handloom and powerloom. Thus handloom will be a seperate sector without any competition from powerloom. Another major problem is the customer don't know the difference between handloom and powerloom. So if we create a fabric unique to handloom the customer who is buying the fabric can be satisfied that the fabric is a handloom. The technique was developed such that it can be woven in a two shaft loom which is easy for a weaver to handle. New techniques were developed such that it can be applied to any fabric. It is not restricted to any type of yarn or its count.

CHALLENGE:
To develop techniques unique to handloom was very difficult. Either it becomes an artwork which is very difficlt and time consuming to execute. To create a technique which is both production friendly and unique was the biggest challenge. Also it took more than a month to find weavers and convince them to work on the project.

ADDED DATE:
2018-06-18 03:53:46

TEAM MEMBERS (1) :
Mugilan.S

IMAGE CREDITS:
Mugilan Soundiraradjou, 2018.



CLIENT/STUDIO/BRAND DETAILS
NAME:
Mugilan.S

PROFILE:
I believe in redefining things to create a change. We try to push boundaries. I am currently working with the handloom weavers of South India. The fabrics are produced for both fashion and furnishing to push the craft to sustain at the next level.



NOMINATION DETAILS

Kalai Textiles by Mugilan Soundiraradjou is a Nominee in Textile, Fabric, Textures, Patterns and Cloth Design Category.

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AWARD DETAILS

Kalai Textiles by Mugilan Soundiraradjou is Winner in Textile, Fabric, Textures, Patterns and Cloth Design Category, 2018 - 2019.



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